Red pad hard to register?

[triggz]

It seems that my red drum pad has to be bashed really hard and dead-center to register the notes, does anyone elses do this? It's pretty much impossible to FC anything and its far worse than the RB kit sensitivity issues.
_________________

2000 Black on Black on Black 4R70W N2O GT Convertible

EDU: Converted Kramer from wireless to wired - works for all GHs+RB!

[triggz]

It seems that my red drum pad has to be bashed really hard and dead-center to register the notes, does anyone elses do this? It's pretty much impossible to FC anything and its far worse than the RB kit sensitivity issues.
_________________

2000 Black on Black on Black 4R70W N2O GT Convertible

EDU: Converted Kramer from wireless to wired - works for all GHs+RB!

[Rednanaki]

I have this issue as well, but I think I'm starting to get used to it (however, not that good on drums so it might not affect me as much). Not sure how to fix besides sending it back, but until it really starts dropping notes, meh...
_________________

GH League Season 8, AAA-5 Runner-Up, Seeded #1

[Rednanaki]

I have this issue as well, but I think I'm starting to get used to it (however, not that good on drums so it might not affect me as much). Not sure how to fix besides sending it back, but until it really starts dropping notes, meh...
_________________

GH League Season 8, AAA-5 Runner-Up, Seeded #1

[electronvtec]

Mine does it too, it was just slightly annoying until I played on my friend's Wii WT drum kit and his kit is pretty much perfect. I "ordered" the free midi-USB cable from redoctane.com and I hope I can just pump up the sensitivity a little to fix it. If that doesn't, it's going back.

[electronvtec]

Mine does it too, it was just slightly annoying until I played on my friend's Wii WT drum kit and his kit is pretty much perfect. I "ordered" the free midi-USB cable from redoctane.com and I hope I can just pump up the sensitivity a little to fix it. If that doesn't, it's going back.

[ElementOfZero]

Yeah, go to RedOctane customer supports and request a midi-usb cable.

The software fixed all my issues.
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[ElementOfZero]

Yeah, go to RedOctane customer supports and request a midi-usb cable.

The software fixed all my issues.
_________________

The Choice Is Yours, And Yours Alone. Silver Snakes 4 Life
My Accomplishment Thread! My Youtube, New Videos posted often

[s17ence]

I need to do this.
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XBL: yooneek

[s17ence]

I need to do this.
_________________

XBL: yooneek

[electronvtec]

Not sure if you saw my email up in the thread about the cable but I'll rehash here:

The cable did fix my issue for about 2 hours. After that, my red pad went completely dead. Not wanting to pay shipping and wait 4-6 weeks for a fixed kit, I broke out a philips head screwdriver and a soldering iron and fixed it myself. The red pad is the most common to fail because the wires are pulled pretty tight to get all the way from the controller to the pad. Mine turned out to be the black wire - just the slightest touch and it completely broke off the bottom of the sensor on the pad. I scraped off the white goo protecting the joint, resoldered the connection and my kit works so much better now it's not even funny. It only took 10 minutes to boot.

Now, however, I found that somehow my kick pedal got pulverized and is just a useless hunk of plastic. I'm picking up an aftermarket electronic bass pedal after work so if it functions as expected, I'll post up here.

Good luck!

[electronvtec]

Not sure if you saw my email up in the thread about the cable but I'll rehash here:

The cable did fix my issue for about 2 hours. After that, my red pad went completely dead. Not wanting to pay shipping and wait 4-6 weeks for a fixed kit, I broke out a philips head screwdriver and a soldering iron and fixed it myself. The red pad is the most common to fail because the wires are pulled pretty tight to get all the way from the controller to the pad. Mine turned out to be the black wire - just the slightest touch and it completely broke off the bottom of the sensor on the pad. I scraped off the white goo protecting the joint, resoldered the connection and my kit works so much better now it's not even funny. It only took 10 minutes to boot.

Now, however, I found that somehow my kick pedal got pulverized and is just a useless hunk of plastic. I'm picking up an aftermarket electronic bass pedal after work so if it functions as expected, I'll post up here.

Good luck!

[eagle777]

It seems over time it happens less

[eagle777]

It seems over time it happens less

[nothankyooo]

I used the Drum Calibration with the midi cable, and it didn't really help at all
_________________

My Accomplishment Thread

[nothankyooo]

I used the Drum Calibration with the midi cable, and it didn't really help at all
_________________

My Accomplishment Thread

[sorgenskammer]

A lot of people (including me) have this problem and the MIDI cable doesn't help because it's the hardware itself that's defective. If you are handy with a soldering iron and/or don't mind opening up the drum set, it's pretty simple to fix actually.

Before you do anything, make sure you still have the receipt from wherever you bought the band kit. If the warranty is close to being up on your receipt, just exchange your band kit because if you either aren't able to fix it or something irrepairable goes wrong you won't be able to send it back to RedOctane after you opened it up. You will always be able to exchange it at most stores because they probably don't even know how to chack if you opened it or not, but RO probably checks to see if you did that, so you want to prolongue your store warranty as long as possible. Chances are, your red pad will still get fucked again eventually, but if not, you just solved the problem with no effort.

What happens with most of the drum sets is a result of the manufacturers leaving no slack on the black wire attached to the sensor on the back of the red pad. After a lot of use, the over-tightened wire just gets knocked loose and the sensor isn't picking anything up unless you smash the pad and cause the sensor to make a fluke connection with the dangling wire. So what you want to do to fix it is go into the drum kit and release some slack on the wire then re-attach it to the sensor. I reccomend soldering it, but if you either don't have a soldering iron or you are uncomfortable using one, you can just tape the wire back on with electrical tape, but this could easily cause it to be knocked loose again.

- First off, you want to unscrew all those tiny screws in the back of the drum set. They will either be normal phillips head screws or those annoying star-head screws, in which case you'll probably have to buy a set of torx wrenches for like ten dollars, but it's worth it.

- Look at the back of your red pad, the black wire will either be totally dangling free, or it will appear to still be attached. Either way you will notice that RO gave the wire NO slack whatsoever. The wire will either just be taped down along its path to the circuit board at the top-center, or it will have foam pads underneath then taped. You want to take all the tape and/or pads off the wire so you can give it more leeway when you re-attach it to the sensor.

FOR REASSURANCE, YOU'RE WORKING ON THE BLACK WIRE, NOT THE RED WIRE.

- Now, if your wire isn't dangling and it's still attached with the white goo (I believe that's silicon gel), you want to pull the wire out from there and try to get the silicon off from the sensor. If you can't get the silicon off because you don't have a small enough tool or you're worried about breaking something, don't worry about it, it won't effect anything. Now strip about 1/2 inch of rubber off of the end of the wire so that the actual metal wires are exposed. You want to re-attach the wire (Preferably with a soldering iron) to the CENTER of the sensor plate, where it's white. If you're soldering, just drip-solder it, but if you have to just tape it on, get a tiny peice or electrical tape and lay the wire flat onto the CENTER of the sensor. MAKE SURE THE TAPE IS SEALED ON TO THE SENSOR WITH ABSOLUTELY NO BUBBLES OR FRINGES HANGING AROUND THE SIDES. I can't stress that point enough, if the tape is loose, your wire is just going to come back off very shortly.

- Now that you have re-attached the wire, you want to pull as much slack as possible from the circuit board to the crater where you just worked on the wire/sensor. Firmly tape it down right before the crater and a few more times along its path. You want the wire to have plenty of room to bend around within the crater where you can see the back of your red drum pad.

- Before you screw all those annoying little screws back in, test to make sure the pad is functional, turn on your drum set and go into the song editor in GHWT, and go into the free play thing. Hit the red drum pad (and all the others) and make sure everything works okay. If you don't have to hit your red pad very hard for it to register, you've successfully fixed your drum set!

- Line everything up and screw those screws back in and you're good to go.

If a bunch of people want me to write a big guide with pictures and everything, let me know. Otherwise, good luck! Hope this helped.
_________________

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[sorgenskammer]

A lot of people (including me) have this problem and the MIDI cable doesn't help because it's the hardware itself that's defective. If you are handy with a soldering iron and/or don't mind opening up the drum set, it's pretty simple to fix actually.

Before you do anything, make sure you still have the receipt from wherever you bought the band kit. If the warranty is close to being up on your receipt, just exchange your band kit because if you either aren't able to fix it or something irrepairable goes wrong you won't be able to send it back to RedOctane after you opened it up. You will always be able to exchange it at most stores because they probably don't even know how to chack if you opened it or not, but RO probably checks to see if you did that, so you want to prolongue your store warranty as long as possible. Chances are, your red pad will still get fucked again eventually, but if not, you just solved the problem with no effort.

What happens with most of the drum sets is a result of the manufacturers leaving no slack on the black wire attached to the sensor on the back of the red pad. After a lot of use, the over-tightened wire just gets knocked loose and the sensor isn't picking anything up unless you smash the pad and cause the sensor to make a fluke connection with the dangling wire. So what you want to do to fix it is go into the drum kit and release some slack on the wire then re-attach it to the sensor. I reccomend soldering it, but if you either don't have a soldering iron or you are uncomfortable using one, you can just tape the wire back on with electrical tape, but this could easily cause it to be knocked loose again.

- First off, you want to unscrew all those tiny screws in the back of the drum set. They will either be normal phillips head screws or those annoying star-head screws, in which case you'll probably have to buy a set of torx wrenches for like ten dollars, but it's worth it.

- Look at the back of your red pad, the black wire will either be totally dangling free, or it will appear to still be attached. Either way you will notice that RO gave the wire NO slack whatsoever. The wire will either just be taped down along its path to the circuit board at the top-center, or it will have foam pads underneath then taped. You want to take all the tape and/or pads off the wire so you can give it more leeway when you re-attach it to the sensor.

FOR REASSURANCE, YOU'RE WORKING ON THE BLACK WIRE, NOT THE RED WIRE.

- Now, if your wire isn't dangling and it's still attached with the white goo (I believe that's silicon gel), you want to pull the wire out from there and try to get the silicon off from the sensor. If you can't get the silicon off because you don't have a small enough tool or you're worried about breaking something, don't worry about it, it won't effect anything. Now strip about 1/2 inch of rubber off of the end of the wire so that the actual metal wires are exposed. You want to re-attach the wire (Preferably with a soldering iron) to the CENTER of the sensor plate, where it's white. If you're soldering, just drip-solder it, but if you have to just tape it on, get a tiny peice or electrical tape and lay the wire flat onto the CENTER of the sensor. MAKE SURE THE TAPE IS SEALED ON TO THE SENSOR WITH ABSOLUTELY NO BUBBLES OR FRINGES HANGING AROUND THE SIDES. I can't stress that point enough, if the tape is loose, your wire is just going to come back off very shortly.

- Now that you have re-attached the wire, you want to pull as much slack as possible from the circuit board to the crater where you just worked on the wire/sensor. Firmly tape it down right before the crater and a few more times along its path. You want the wire to have plenty of room to bend around within the crater where you can see the back of your red drum pad.

- Before you screw all those annoying little screws back in, test to make sure the pad is functional, turn on your drum set and go into the song editor in GHWT, and go into the free play thing. Hit the red drum pad (and all the others) and make sure everything works okay. If you don't have to hit your red pad very hard for it to register, you've successfully fixed your drum set!

- Line everything up and screw those screws back in and you're good to go.

If a bunch of people want me to write a big guide with pictures and everything, let me know. Otherwise, good luck! Hope this helped.
_________________

Goals:
TtFaF [ ] (439k)
GH3 Expert FCs [20] Most Recent: Even Flow
Everything in GH2[ ] (PFO, Misirlou, and Six)
Finish Charting a Song [ ] (Almost done)